How to Grow Garlic from Bulb: Complete Step-by-Step Guide

Growing garlic from bulbs is straightforward: plant individual cloves pointy-end up, 2 inches deep and 6 inches apart in well-draining soil 4-6 weeks before your first frost date. Water consistently but avoid soggy conditions, and harvest when one-third of leaves turn brown. Most gardeners achieve success with fall planting for summer harvest.

Discover exactly how to transform store-bought or saved garlic bulbs into a thriving home garden crop. This comprehensive guide reveals the precise timing, soil requirements, and care techniques that produce plump, flavorful garlic bulbs—whether you're gardening in USDA Zone 3 or Zone 9. You'll learn critical distinctions between hardneck and softneck varieties, avoid common beginner mistakes, and master the curing process that extends your harvest for months.

Garlic Growing Fundamentals: Bulb vs. Clove Clarification

Before planting, understand that what we commonly call a "garlic bulb" actually consists of individual cloves. Each clove you plant will develop into a new full bulb. The entire head (what you buy at the store) is technically a bulb composed of multiple cloves. When selecting planting stock, choose the largest, healthiest cloves from organic bulbs—these produce the most vigorous plants.

Characteristic	Hardneck Garlic	Softneck Garlic
Cold Tolerance	Excellent (best for Zones 1-6)	Moderate (best for Zones 7-10)
Storage Life	5-8 months	9-12 months
Flower Stalks	Produces edible scapes	No scapes
Peeling Ease	Easier to peel	More difficult to peel

This comparison comes from the University of Minnesota Extension Service, which has conducted extensive garlic variety trials across North American growing zones. Your climate determines which type will thrive—hardnecks generally perform better in colder regions while softnecks excel in milder climates.

Optimal Planting Timeline for Your Region

Timing makes or breaks your garlic harvest. The universal rule: plant 4-6 weeks before your ground freezes. This allows roots to establish without significant top growth before winter. In most temperate regions, this means:

• Northern zones (3-5): Late September to mid-October
• Middle zones (6-7): October to early November
• Southern zones (8-10): November to December

Planting too early causes excessive top growth vulnerable to winter kill. Planting too late prevents root development, resulting in weak plants come spring. The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map provides precise timing guidance based on your specific location.

Soil Preparation: Creating the Perfect Garlic Bed

Garlic demands well-draining soil with pH between 6.0-7.0. Before planting:

1. Clear the planting area of weeds and debris
2. Amend soil with 3-4 inches of compost or well-rotted manure
3. Work in 10-20 pounds of bone meal per 100 square feet for phosphorus
4. Create raised beds 6-8 inches high if drainage is questionable

Avoid fresh manure which can cause disease. The Cornell University Gardeners' Resource states that garlic growing in poorly draining soil develops smaller bulbs and higher disease incidence. Test your soil pH—a simple $10 kit from garden centers provides accurate readings.

Step-by-Step Planting Process

Follow these precise steps for successful garlic planting:

1. Separate cloves from bulb 1-2 days before planting (keep papery skin intact)
2. Select largest cloves for planting (smaller ones make good eating)
3. Plant pointy-end up, 2 inches deep in heavy soil, 3 inches in sandy soil
4. Space cloves 6 inches apart in rows 12-18 inches apart
5. Cover with soil and gently firm the surface
6. Mulch immediately with 4-6 inches of straw or shredded leaves

Mulching is non-negotiable in most climates—it regulates soil temperature, prevents heaving during freeze-thaw cycles, and suppresses spring weeds. Remove mulch gradually in spring as shoots emerge to prevent rot.

Seasonal Care: Watering, Feeding, and Maintenance

Garlic requires consistent moisture but hates soggy conditions. Follow this seasonal schedule:

• Fall: Water after planting if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week
• Winter: No additional care needed under mulch
• Early spring: Remove mulch when shoots reach 4 inches
• Spring growth: Water 1 inch per week during dry periods
• May-June: Reduce watering as harvest approaches

Apply a nitrogen-rich fertilizer (like fish emulsion) when shoots reach 6 inches tall and again in early spring. Hardneck varieties produce scapes (flower stalks)—remove these when they curl for larger bulbs. The Rodale Institute's organic gardening trials show that scape removal increases bulb size by 15-25%.

Harvesting and Curing: The Critical Final Steps

Harvest timing determines storage success. Watch for these signs:

• Lower third of leaves turn brown
• Top leaves remain green (don't wait for complete browning)
• Bulb wrappers become dry and papery

Use a garden fork to carefully lift bulbs—never pull by the stem. Brush off excess soil but don't wash. Cure in a warm, dry, shaded area with good air circulation for 2-3 weeks. The University of California Cooperative Extension recommends 75-85°F with 70-80% humidity for optimal curing. Properly cured garlic develops protective wrappers that prevent mold during storage.

Troubleshooting Common Garlic Growing Problems

Even experienced gardeners encounter these issues:

• Small bulbs: Usually from late planting, poor soil, or overcrowding
• Moldy cloves: Caused by wet soil or improper curing
• Yellowing leaves: Could indicate nutrient deficiency or water stress
• No bulb formation: Often from insufficient cold exposure (vernalization)

Prevent disease by rotating planting locations every 3-4 years. Garlic belongs to the Allium family—don't plant where onions, leeks, or shallots grew recently. The USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service notes that crop rotation reduces soil-borne diseases by up to 70% in Allium crops.

Storing Your Harvest for Maximum Shelf Life

After proper curing, store garlic in:

• Cool (55-65°F), dark location with good air circulation
• Braided in bunches (softnecks only) or in mesh bags
• Avoid refrigeration which triggers sprouting
• Check monthly for soft spots or mold

Hardneck varieties typically store 5-8 months while softnecks last 9-12 months. Never store garlic in oil at room temperature due to botulism risk. For long-term preservation, freeze minced garlic in olive oil or make garlic powder from surplus cloves.

Can I grow garlic from supermarket bulbs?

Yes, but organic supermarket bulbs work best as conventional bulbs may be treated with sprout inhibitors. Choose the largest cloves for planting and expect variable results compared to seed garlic from gardening suppliers.

How deep should I plant garlic cloves?

Plant cloves 2 inches deep in heavy clay soil and 3 inches deep in sandy soil. Measure from the base of the clove, not the tip. Proper depth prevents winter heaving and ensures optimal bulb development.

Why are my garlic bulbs small?

Small bulbs typically result from late planting, overcrowding, poor soil nutrition, or insufficient water during bulbing season (May-June). Planting large cloves, proper spacing (6 inches apart), and timely nitrogen feeding improve bulb size.

When should I harvest garlic?

Harvest when the lower third of leaves turn brown but the top leaves remain green, typically late June to August depending on your climate. Check a test bulb first—wrappers should be dry and papery with cloves distinctly formed.

How do I prevent garlic from molding during storage?

Prevent mold by ensuring proper curing (2-3 weeks in warm, dry, ventilated area), storing in cool (55-65°F) conditions with good air circulation, and checking bulbs monthly for soft spots. Never store uncured garlic or in plastic bags which trap moisture.