Tomato suckers are the small shoots that grow in the V-shaped junction between a tomato plant's main stem and its branches. These secondary growths compete with the main plant for nutrients and can reduce fruit production if left unchecked on indeterminate varieties.
Understanding tomato suckers is essential for maximizing your harvest and maintaining healthy plants. Whether you're a beginner gardener or looking to refine your technique, knowing what tomato suckers are and how to manage them can transform your tomato-growing results. In this guide, you'll learn not just the definition, but exactly when and how to handle these growths for optimal plant performance.
What Exactly Are Tomato Suckers? The Botanical Explanation
Tomato suckers, scientifically known as axillary buds, emerge from the leaf axils—the point where side branches meet the main stem. These shoots have the potential to develop into full secondary stems with their own branches, leaves, and fruit clusters. While they might look like normal growth, they represent the plant's energy being diverted from fruit production to additional vegetative growth.
Unlike the main stem which grows vertically from the top (apical meristem), suckers grow from lateral buds. This distinction is crucial because it affects how the plant allocates its resources. When left to grow, a single sucker can develop into a stem nearly as large as the main trunk, creating a bushier but less productive plant.
Why Tomato Suckers Matter: The Science Behind Pruning
Research from the University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources shows that proper sucker management can increase fruit size by 15-20% on indeterminate varieties. The reason? Plants have finite energy resources. When suckers develop into full branches, the plant must distribute its nutrients and carbohydrates across more growth points, resulting in smaller fruits and delayed ripening.
| Plant Characteristic | With Suckers Removed | With Suckers Left |
|---|---|---|
| Fruit size | 15-20% larger | Smaller, more numerous |
| Ripening time | Earlier harvest | Delayed by 7-10 days |
| Disease risk | Reduced (better airflow) | Increased (dense foliage) |
| Total yield | Slightly lower but higher quality | Slightly higher but lower quality |
How to Identify Tomato Suckers: Visual Guide
Spotting tomato suckers requires knowing exactly where to look. Examine the V-shaped junctions (axils) between the main stem and leaf branches. Young suckers appear as small, pointed growths emerging from these junctions. As they mature, they develop their own leaf sets and eventually flower clusters.
Key identification features:
- Grow at 45-degree angle from main stem
- Appear between existing branches and main stem
- Have distinctive pointed tip when young
- Develop leaf sets as they mature
Determinate vs. Indeterminate: The Critical Difference
Understanding your tomato variety is essential before deciding whether to remove suckers. This is where many gardeners make critical mistakes that reduce their harvest.
Determinate varieties (bush tomatoes) form a fixed number of fruit clusters and stop growing at a certain height. These varieties should not have suckers removed because they naturally produce all their fruit at once, and pruning can actually reduce your total yield. Examples include 'Roma', 'Celebrity', and 'Bush Early Girl'.
Indeterminate varieties (vining tomatoes) continue growing and producing fruit throughout the season until killed by frost. These varieties benefit significantly from selective sucker removal to direct energy toward fruit production rather than excessive foliage. Examples include 'Beefsteak', 'Cherokee Purple', and 'Sun Gold'.
When and How to Remove Tomato Suckers: Practical Techniques
The timing of sucker removal dramatically affects plant recovery and growth. The optimal window is when suckers are 2-4 inches long. At this stage, they're large enough to grasp easily but small enough that the plant experiences minimal stress from removal.
Pinching method (best for young suckers 2-4 inches):
- Locate the sucker growing in the leaf axil
- Place thumb and forefinger at the base
- Gently pinch and twist until it snaps off
- Avoid tearing the main stem
Pruning method (for larger suckers or sterile conditions):
- Sterilize pruning shears with rubbing alcohol
- Cut the sucker at a 45-degree angle
- Leave a small ¼-inch stub to prevent disease entry
- Disinfect tools between plants
According to Cornell University's College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the best time for removal is during morning hours when plants are turgid (full of water), which minimizes stress and promotes faster healing of the wound site.
Common Misconceptions About Tomato Suckers
Several widespread myths about tomato suckers lead gardeners to make counterproductive decisions:
Myth: All suckers must be removed for maximum yield
Reality: Complete removal of all suckers creates a single-stem plant that often produces fewer total fruits. Most experts recommend maintaining 2-3 main stems for optimal production.
Myth: Sucker removal prevents all diseases
Reality: While improved airflow from pruning reduces fungal diseases, it doesn't eliminate risks. Proper watering practices and crop rotation remain essential.
Myth: Suckers can be used to grow new plants
Reality: While possible, sucker cuttings typically produce weaker plants than traditional stem cuttings taken from the top growth.
Regional Considerations for Sucker Management
Your local climate significantly affects whether and how aggressively you should manage tomato suckers. In cooler northern climates with shorter growing seasons, many gardeners leave additional suckers to maximize fruit production within the limited timeframe.
Conversely, in hot southern climates, more aggressive pruning improves airflow through the plant canopy, reducing the risk of fungal diseases that thrive in humidity. The University of Florida IFAS Extension recommends maintaining only one main stem in high-humidity regions to minimize disease pressure.
When NOT to Remove Tomato Suckers: Important Exceptions
Despite common advice, there are specific situations where removing tomato suckers may do more harm than good:
- During extreme heat waves (above 90°F/32°C) - the additional foliage provides shade that prevents sunscald on ripening fruit
- When plants show signs of stress from drought, pests, or disease - pruning adds additional stress
- For container-grown tomatoes with limited root space - the reduced foliage helps balance the smaller root system
- With heirloom varieties known for lower productivity - some gardeners prefer more stems for greater total yield
A study published in the HortScience journal found that in container gardening situations, plants with one additional sucker produced 23% more total fruit than strictly pruned single-stem plants, demonstrating that context matters significantly in sucker management decisions.
Advanced Sucker Management Strategies
Experienced gardeners use specialized techniques to optimize their tomato production through strategic sucker management:
The Missouri pruning technique: Instead of removing the entire sucker, pinch off only the tip, leaving 1-2 leaves. This provides some shade while still directing most energy toward fruit production. This method works particularly well in sunny climates where sunscald is a concern.
Successive sucker selection: Choose one strong sucker to become a second main stem, then remove all others below that point. Repeat this process every 12-18 inches up the plant to create a multi-stemmed plant with staggered fruit production.
Sucker timing strategy: Remove lower suckers early in the season but allow upper suckers to develop later, creating a plant that focuses on early fruit production while still maximizing late-season yield.
What to Do With Removed Suckers
Don't waste those removed suckers! While they won't produce strong plants if rooted directly, you can:
- Compost them for nutrient recycling
- Use as natural mulch around plant bases
- Experiment with rooting in water (though success rates are low)
- Add to vegetable stock for subtle flavor (use sparingly)
Remember that tomato suckers contain solanine, a natural compound that gives them a bitter taste, so use minimal amounts if incorporating into culinary applications.
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