Ready to grow your own flavorful garlic? Fall planting creates larger, more robust bulbs than spring planting because garlic requires a cold period to trigger proper bulb formation. This complete guide gives you everything you need to know for a successful harvest next summer.
Why Fall Is the Perfect Time for Garlic Planting
Garlic (Allium sativum) belongs to the same family as onions and requires vernalization—a cold period—to develop properly. When planted in fall, cloves establish root systems before winter dormancy, then resume vigorous growth in spring. This extended growing season produces bulbs up to 30% larger than spring-planted garlic according to University of Minnesota Extension research.
| Planting Time | Root Development | Typical Bulb Size | Storage Life |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fall (4-6 weeks before frost) | 8-12 inches before winter | Large (2.5-3" diameter) | 6-8 months |
| Spring | Minimal before top growth | Small to medium (1.5-2" diameter) | 3-5 months |
Your Fall Garlic Planting Timeline
Follow this season-by-season approach for best results:
August-September: Soil Preparation
Begin preparing your bed 2-3 weeks before planting. Garlic thrives in loose, well-draining soil with pH between 6.0-7.5. Incorporate 3-4 inches of compost and a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10) into the top 8-12 inches of soil. Raised beds work particularly well in areas with heavy rainfall.
September-October: Planting Time
Select firm, plump cloves from certified seed garlic (never use grocery store bulbs which may carry disease). Separate cloves from bulbs 1-2 days before planting, keeping wrappers intact. Plant with pointed end up, 2-4 inches deep (deeper in colder zones), and 4-6 inches apart in rows 12-18 inches apart.
November: Winter Protection
After planting, water thoroughly then wait until soil temperature drops below 50°F (10°C) before applying 4-6 inches of straw or shredded leaves. This timing prevents premature growth while protecting against freeze-thaw cycles. In zones 7 and warmer, reduce mulch to 2-3 inches.
| Climate Zone | Optimal Planting Window | Mulch Depth | Recommended Varieties |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3-5 | Sept 15-Oct 15 | 6 inches | Music, German Extra Hardy |
| 6-7 | Oct 1-31 | 4-6 inches | Rocambole, Chesnok Red |
| 8-10 | Oct 15-Nov 15 | 2-3 inches | Inchelium Red, California Early |
Avoid These 3 Common Garlic Planting Mistakes
Mistake #1: Planting Too Early
Putting cloves in the ground before soil cools to 50°F causes premature top growth that won't survive winter. Wait until daytime temperatures consistently stay below 60°F.
Mistake #2: Using Poor Quality Seed Stock
Grocery store garlic often contains sprout inhibitors and may carry diseases like white rot. Invest in certified disease-free seed garlic from reputable growers like USDA Agricultural Research Service recommended suppliers.
Mistake #3: Inconsistent Watering
Garlic needs consistent moisture during active growth but rots in waterlogged soil. Water deeply once weekly during dry spells in spring, then reduce irrigation 2-3 weeks before harvest when lower leaves begin yellowing.
What to Expect Through the Growing Season
Watch for these key milestones after fall planting:
- November: Roots develop while tops remain dormant
- February-March: Green shoots emerge through mulch
- April-May: Remove scapes (flower stalks) from hardneck varieties
- June-July: Lower leaves turn brown indicating harvest time
Hardneck varieties produce edible scapes in late spring—removing these directs energy to bulb development. Softneck varieties don't produce scapes but store longer after harvest.
Harvesting and Storage Tips
Harvest when 1/3 of leaves turn brown but 2/3 remain green—typically late June to August depending on your zone. Cure bulbs in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area for 2-3 weeks before trimming roots and stems. Store cured garlic at 55-65°F with 60-70% humidity for longest shelf life.








浙公网安备
33010002000092号
浙B2-20120091-4