How to Plant Garlic: Complete Step-by-Step Guide

Plant garlic cloves in fall 4-6 weeks before your first frost date, spacing them 4-6 inches apart with the pointed end up, 2-4 inches deep in well-drained soil with pH 6.0-7.0. Expect harvest 7-9 months later when 1/3 of leaves turn brown. With proper care, each clove yields a full bulb containing 5-12 cloves.

When to Plant Garlic: Timing Is Everything

Successful garlic cultivation starts with perfect timing. Fall planting gives garlic the cold period it needs to develop large, well-formed bulbs. Plant cloves 4-6 weeks before your first expected frost date, when soil temperatures drop to 50-60°F (10-15°C). This timing allows roots to establish before winter dormancy while preventing premature top growth.

Planting too early risks excessive leaf growth vulnerable to winter kill. Planting too late prevents adequate root development before freezing temperatures. Use this USDA zone reference for optimal planting windows:

USDA Hardiness Zone	Recommended Planting Window	Soil Temperature Target
3-4	Early to mid-September	50-55°F (10-13°C)
5-6	Mid to late September	50-55°F (10-13°C)
7-8	October	55-60°F (13-15°C)
9-10	November to early December	55-60°F (13-15°C)

Choosing the Right Garlic Varieties for Your Garden

Not all garlic is created equal. Understanding the two main types helps you select varieties suited to your climate and culinary preferences:

Characteristic	Hardneck Garlic	Softneck Garlic
Cold Hardiness	Excellent (best for zones 3-7)	Moderate (best for zones 7-10)
Flavor Profile	Bolder, more complex	Milder, more consistent
Storage Life	5-8 months	9-12 months
Unique Feature	Produces edible scapes in spring	Braiding capability
Recommended Varieties	Porcelain, Rocambole, Purple Stripe	Silverskin, Artichoke

Source: University of Minnesota Extension

Preparing Your Soil for Maximum Garlic Growth

Garlic thrives in well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Prepare your planting bed 2-3 weeks before planting date:

1. Test soil pH (ideal range: 6.0-7.0). Amend acidic soils with garden lime.
2. Clear area of weeds and previous crop debris.
3. Incorporate 3-4 inches of compost or well-rotted manure.
4. Add balanced organic fertilizer (5-10-10) at 1 lb per 100 sq ft.
5. Create raised beds 4-6 inches high if drainage is questionable.

Avoid fresh manure which can cause disease issues. Garlic particularly benefits from phosphorus for bulb development and potassium for disease resistance. Consider adding bone meal (for phosphorus) and greensand (for potassium) according to soil test recommendations.

Your Step-by-Step Garlic Planting Guide

Follow these steps for successful garlic planting:

Step 1: Selecting Planting Stock

Use certified disease-free garlic from reputable growers. Never plant grocery store garlic which may carry diseases or be treated to prevent sprouting. Break bulbs into individual cloves 1-2 days before planting, keeping the papery husk intact. Select the largest, healthiest cloves for planting.

Step 2: Proper Planting Technique

1. Plant cloves with the pointed end up, flat root end down.
2. Space cloves 4-6 inches apart in all directions.
3. Plant at proper depth: 2 inches deep in cold climates, 4 inches deep in mild climates.
4. Space rows 12-18 inches apart for easy access.

Step 3: Mulching for Winter Protection

After planting, apply 3-6 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or compost). This insulates against temperature fluctuations, prevents heaving from freeze-thaw cycles, and suppresses weeds. In extremely cold regions (zones 3-4), increase mulch to 6-8 inches after the ground cools but before hard freeze.

Seasonal Care Calendar for Thriving Garlic

Garlic requires different care throughout its growing season:

Fall (After Planting)

• Water thoroughly after planting if soil is dry
• Apply mulch once soil cools
• No additional watering needed unless rainfall is scarce

Winter

• Check mulch coverage after heavy winds
• No active care required during dormancy

Spring (When Growth Resumes)

• Rake back mulch when green shoots appear
• Apply nitrogen-rich fertilizer when leaves reach 6 inches tall
• Water regularly during dry periods (1 inch per week)
• Remove flower stalks (scapes) from hardneck varieties when they curl

Summer (Bulb Formation)

• Reduce watering 2-3 weeks before expected harvest
• Stop watering completely when lower leaves begin yellowing
• Monitor for signs of maturity

Harvesting Garlic at Peak Perfection

Timing your harvest correctly ensures maximum bulb size and storage life. Watch for these visual indicators:

• Lower third of leaves turn brown while upper leaves remain green
• Bulb wrappers become dry and papery
• Cloves fill the bulb casing without separating

To harvest, carefully loosen soil with a garden fork and lift bulbs. Avoid pulling by the stem. Brush off excess soil but do not wash. Cure garlic in a warm (75-85°F), dry, shaded location with good air circulation for 2-3 weeks. Bunches of 10-15 bulbs hanging upside down work well for curing.

Storage Solutions for Long-Lasting Garlic

Properly cured garlic stores best under these conditions:

• Temperature: 55-65°F (13-18°C)
• Humidity: 60-70%
• Air circulation: Essential to prevent mold
• Storage containers: Mesh bags, paper bags with holes, or woven baskets

Do not store garlic in refrigerators (promotes sprouting) or airtight containers (traps moisture). Hardneck varieties typically store 5-8 months while softnecks can last 9-12 months under ideal conditions. Check stored garlic monthly and remove any showing signs of decay.

Troubleshooting Common Garlic Growing Problems

Address these frequent issues to maximize your garlic harvest:

Yellowing Leaves

Possible causes: Nitrogen deficiency, overwatering, or fungal disease
Solution: Test soil, adjust watering, ensure proper drainage, remove affected plants

Poor Bulb Development

Possible causes: Planting too late, insufficient nutrients, wrong variety for climate
Solution: Plant at proper time, amend soil with balanced nutrients, select appropriate varieties

Pest Problems

Onion maggots: Rotate crops, use row covers
Nematodes: Solarize soil, plant marigolds as companion plants

Rotting Bulbs

Possible causes: Poor drainage, excessive moisture, fungal infection
Solution: Improve soil drainage, reduce watering before harvest, practice crop rotation

Source: Oregon State University Extension

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I plant garlic in the spring instead of fall?

While fall planting produces larger bulbs, you can plant garlic in early spring as soon as soil can be worked. Spring-planted garlic typically yields smaller bulbs and may not develop multiple cloves. Expect a harvest 3-4 months later rather than the typical 7-9 months for fall-planted garlic.

How deep should I plant garlic cloves?

Plant garlic cloves 2-4 inches deep, measured from the tip of the clove to the soil surface. In colder climates (zones 3-5), plant deeper (3-4 inches) for better winter protection. In milder climates (zones 7-10), 2 inches is sufficient. Always plant with the pointed end facing up.

Why are my garlic bulbs small even after proper care?

Small garlic bulbs often result from planting cloves that are too small, improper timing, insufficient nutrients, or overcrowding. Ensure you're using the largest cloves from your seed stock, planting at the correct time for your zone, providing adequate spacing (4-6 inches), and amending soil with proper nutrients before planting.

Should I remove the flower stalks from my garlic plants?

Yes, for hardneck garlic varieties, remove the flower stalks (scapes) when they complete their first curl but before they straighten out. This redirects the plant's energy into bulb development rather than seed production, typically increasing bulb size by 20-30%. Scapes are edible and delicious when sautéed or added to pesto.